matt segal

The last two days have been sick! Tuesday the plan was to hit up the Roaches, an amazing grit crag, but upon our arrival a nasty hailstorm ruined our chances of climbing anything… So we waited out the storm at a café bellow the crag, where I had a classic English meal: baked potato with beans and cheese… So good, but not sure if I would call it sending food… Once the weather calmed we realized the cliff wasn’t going to dry so we took off to the Churnet Valley… It was a pleasant surprise of sandstone routes/boulders, a nice change from all the grit stone. So cool… very similar to a lot of the climbing in the South East of the US.

We all warmed up on some mellow E2/E3 high balls, then quickly dispatched Thumbelina E6 V7 (notice the British/American grading). Kevin and I both flashed, not hesitating on the gym like moves… Honnold sent second try in his trainers… Super proud, he forgot his climbing gear and with his “no big deal” attitude he tightened his lasses and went for it…

After Thumbelina we tried Cornelius, E7 V? After a few goes Kevin came close but did not commit, super cool line… Hopefully we’ll get the chance to go back for it.

Sam Whittaker on Thumblina

Yesterday we went back to Burbage, which is a grit crag that is stacked with routes! Kevin and I immediately got psyched on trying Parthian Shot E9 (maybe E8) with Ben Bransby. It was super cool to have him there because he inspired us to try the route ground up! We weren’t going in perfect style since we were climbing on it with pre-placed/clipped gear but definitely better style then head pointing…

So the break down is you do some 5.12 climbing to this massive flake, where the pre placed gear is, then quest up into the unknown… it’s such a rad feeling to keep getting higher and higher on the route not knowing what the next hold is going to feel like and knowing the fall is going to get bigger and bigger… Check out this vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YGePHW5wG8

Alex had a pretty sick day too, head pointing both Balance it is E7 and Symbas Pride E8! Sickey Dawg! Can’t wait to try those two..

Falling off of Parthion Shot. Photo by Cory Richards: crichardsphoto.com

Alex on Symbas Pride E8

Walking to Crag Photo by Cory Richards: crichardsphoto.com

Photo by Cory Richards: crichardsphoto.com

Jason and I chilling in the cold Photo by Cory Richards: crichardsphoto.com

From the other day at Bridestones Photo by Cory Richards: crichardsphoto.com

Photo by Cory Richards: crichardsphoto.com

Cory bruised from bouldering

As for other news, Ethan Pringle made the second ascent of the Iron Monkey 5.14, a route I established a few years ago in Eldorado Canyon… So sick! I haven’t spoken to him about the details yet but am sure he’ll write a new post about it soon, check it out: www.ethanpringle.com

Me on the first ascent of the Iron Monkey 5.14 Jonny Copp Photo: www.coppworks.com

And finally it turns out that Jason our grit stone guide and host, is apparently the manliest man in Britain, check out this link: http://www.salfordadvertiser.co.uk/news/s/1027339_lucy_pinder_calls_me_the_manliest_man_in_britain_