matt segal

So psyched! Got err done…

After we dropped the bag I went back but it was way to hot, crazy since it’s only the beginning of March. I tied in and was super shaky, I just had this vision of my body smacking the slab as hard as the bag did. I couldn’t fully commit but went for it anyway. I ended up backing off two times before I actually dropped the clutch. When I finally decided to give it my all it felt way to hot on the tiny crux crimp and fell on the first move of the crux section. All the gear held and the fall wasn’t that bad… I was pretty psyched I didn’t get any farther since that fall may not of been so nice.

I went back 2 days later, a little more confident with the cooler temps and the fact that I knew the gear was good. With little hesitation I executed the crux sequence and before I realized, it was all over.

Its funny… the fist thing everyone wants to know about a new route is the grade; everyone wants a number. I’m never sure about grading, but I guess the grade that the first ascentionist gives is just a suggestion, and the consensus comes after it’s seen repeats. When I try and grade something I always take into consideration the beginning and the end of the experience. I Try and remember how hard it was the first time I tried it, then remember how hard the actual send felt…

For this one… I’m thinking the crux feels like a solid V10 boulder problem (maybe even V11) So…I’m going with 5.13+(8b) as for the seriousness, I think it deserves R, I fell at the beginning of the crux and was fine but I think a fall at the end would not be good.

Top Roping…