matt segal

Fighting jetlag is always a challenge, especially when the weather is perfect and you know its not going to last. I spent the last few days battling my jetlag at one of the most inspiring climbing destinations I’ve ever been to: the sea cliffs of Pembroke in South Wales. Its breath taking, absolutely amazing limestone located right over the crashing sea.

The climbing is tricky and bold, face climbing with funky gear. The exposure can be similar to climbing 1000 feet off the ground except you’re above rough water. There’s something about having moving water below you that makes you feel exposed and vulnerable. Luckily when you top out, you escape the chaotic sea and climbing to a calm grassy field, a great place to unwind after an epic pitch.

Unfortunately I only had two days of climbing before the classic British weather came and spoiled our good times. But those two days were loads of fun. It was the first time I’d ever used double ropes, which was a huge mess. I fully crossed my ropes on my first climb and by the time I got to the top I had horrible rope drag, but it was pretty easy so I didn’t have much of an issue….

I only climbed a couple routes in the E3 and E4 range but was able to learn a lot about climbing in Pembroke and my personal climbing style. The most obvious being that I’m really weak at on sighting and have a lot of work to do in that realm of climbing. I was also amazed at how much passive gear I used in Pembroke, I think I placed more stoppers on one pitch then I did on all of El Capitan, super funny!

Climbing those two days in Pembroke was like finally learning how to traditional climb! I feel I have so much to learn as a climber and realized I’ve ignored it in the pursuit of projecting harder routes. I’ve dedicated so much time to establishing difficult single pitch gear lines and haven’t spent any time on sighting or learning how to place tricky gear on the fly. BUT the time is now and I’m super psyched to explore this forgotten discipline of on-sight traditional climbing.

I hope to make it back to Pembroke before this trip is over.