matt segal

After a great trip in Wales we headed to Northumberland, an amazing little sandstone area. The climbing is similar to the grit stone in the Peak District except instead of being slopey friction climbing its crimpy gymnastic pulling! I was pretty psyched since this is more my style of climbing…

The goal was to repeat Transcendence E8 6c, a Malcolm Smith head point that only has seen one other head point repeat. After scoping the line I thought it would be cool to climb ground up. I was pretty psyched! The climbing looked like my style and the route didn’t seem that dangerous…

Unfortunately I only gave it three goes before I heard this loud POP coming from my left hand… No Bueno! I immediately knew I did something wrong. I hung there for a little in awe of the noise that came from my ring finger; I’d heard people pop pulleys before but never on my own hand. Immediately negative thoughts flooded my head since I knew it meant the trip was over and I was going to need some time off.

I was super bummed! I had just gotten psyched on training and was planning on competing in a world cup bouldering comp not mention I was super psyched to get on some local projects I’ve had my eye on for a while… Oh well, shit happens and I’m sure it will heal.

On the bright side, some time off will be good for me. I haven’t taken much time off in the last 2 years so a month or two will be good for my mind and body. I’m actually excited to climb some easy long routes in the mountains since that wont bother my finger… Could be good…

Photos by Caroline Harvey